There’s hardly a better culinary pairing than enjoying fresh fish and chips in a quaint coastal community.
With nearly 26,000 kilometres of shoreline, 40,000 islands, pristine waters, and a long-standing fishing legacy, B.C. has no shortage of great fish and chip joints – known as “chippies” in the land of the Brits.
For this reason, Goldstream Gazette reporter Ben Fenlon, a native of Britain, and Saanich News reporter Olivier Laurin set out on an arduously delicious mission to find the best maker of this U.K. staple in the Capital Region.
From Sidney, at the northern tip of the Saanich Peninsula, all the way down to Victoria's bustling Inner Harbour, the two journalists tested six different restaurants serving primarily fried fish and fries.
The review was based on one piece of halibut – often considered a premium option – and a portion of fries.
The criteria evaluated for this endeavour were divided into five categories.
First, the central piece, the fish, was judged on the size of the portion offered, its freshness and texture. Halibut, known for its firmer, denser flesh, should neither be mushy nor too dry to earn maximum grading.
Second, the batter. The crispy outer layer should be mildly flavoured, well-seasoned with salt, crunchy, and light. Points were deducted if the batter was overly greasy, fell off the fish, or was too soft and soggy.
Third – and not to be underestimated – are the chips, also known as french fries (but don’t say that to a Brit). Proper chips, as opposed to North American fries, should be chunky, wide, and thick. While they may have a golden, crispy exterior, British-style chips should be soft and creamy on the inside.
Fourth, the condiments. No proper fish and chips is complete without its trusty sidekicks to enhance the dish’s main players. Think a plump wedge of lemon, malt vinegar, and most importantly, tartar sauce. Although mushy peas and malt vinegar are go-to options overseas, tartar sauce reigns supreme as the ultimate supporting character in North America.
And finally, the price. Known as the ultimate dish of the people in the U.K., fish and chips should defy inflationary trends and offer a hearty meal for the everyday working-class customer.
With all that said, enough rambling. Let’s dive in, shall we?
Fish O Chips - Sidney (10153 Resthaven Dr.)
The first spot did not disappoint. The service was great and fast, and the portion arguably had the biggest piece of fish in this review gauntlet.
Speaking of which, the fish was just the right thickness, was light, well-cooked, firm, and incredibly flaky.
The batter was perfectly crispy and golden brown, with beautiful crunchy bits. Although it lacked a bit of saltiness – after all, it's always better to be under-salted than over-salted – it made up for it in flavour and texture.
The chips, according to Ben, were the closest to the “real” thing. Thicker than your original french fries, the outside was golden brown, and the inside was soft and fulsome. However, the chips at the bottom of the dish became a bit too soggy for our liking – perhaps because of the steam generated by the dish's heat.
This British classic was served with a good portion of coleslaw and a small portion of tartar sauce. Although the portion was on the small side, the tartar sauce was full-bodied, sweet, tangy and well balanced.
The price for this order was $22, which isn’t cheap nor too expensive.
Overall, Fish O Chips starts off as a contender to be reckoned with.
Fish on Fifth - Sidney (9812 Fifth St.)
The second stop offered perhaps the biggest overall portion of this fish and chips review tour. The hefty mound of chips was crowned by a long piece of fish, flanked by the largest cup of tartar sauce and a generous scoop of coleslaw – all beautifully presented.
The fish was just the right thickness, fluffy, bright white, and fresh, but a bit on the mushier side.
The batter was well seasoned, crispy and stuck to the fish, but was a bit on the pale side, suggesting it could have remained in the oil a bit longer for a crispier finish.
The fries were abundant, well seasoned, but a bit on the overcooked side.
The tartar sauce has proven to be the star of the show here. Hefty, flavourful, dill-forward, with big chunks of gherkins, this was a great addition to the dish.
Price-wise, this plate was $21, which isn’t bad.
Overall, Fish on Fifth offered a big portion, great sides, but lacked a bit of je ne sais quoi.
Naughty Nellie’s - Saanich (4081 Shelbourne St.)
This long-standing Saanich institution offered the most unique experience of the review run.
Served in a newspaper wrap, as an ode to the traditional way of presenting this British classic, the meal revealed an interesting surprise upon peeling back the final layer of waxed paper.
The first thing that jumped out was the fish’s brightly coloured batter – not your standard fare and reminiscent of American-Chinese-style batter (think almond fried chicken or fried prawns). Though a bold twist on the classic, the reporter felt it missed the mark slightly, adding that the batter didn’t adhere well to the fish.
The fish itself was medium in size, flaky, plump, and cooked to perfection.
The chips, however, were a bit of a miss. More like fries, they were soft – likely from the steam – and underseasoned.
As for the tartar sauce, it leaned more toward a yogurt-based dip, with a flavour profile similar to Greek tzatziki. Also worth noting: customers must pay extra for tartar sauce.
Amid all that, one silver lining emerged — the price. Naughty Nellie’s was the cheapest of all the stops, with a total cost just north of $19.
Overall, this experience landed somewhere in the middle of the road.
Red Fish Blue Fish - Victoria (1006 Wharf St.)
With a queue of people often stretching as far as the eye can see, Red Fish Blue Fish is one of the region’s most well-known and beloved fish-and-chip joints.
Starting strong with a good portion of fish, it was chunky, well-cooked and flaky.
It also had a great fish-to-batter ratio, with the latter being crispy, well-seasoned, nicely adhered to the fish, and showcasing a perfect golden colour. However, on the downside, excess oil appeared when cut.
Once again, rather than traditional chips, the fries were skinny, long, and well-cooked, generously seasoned with salt and black pepper. While other chippies held back, Red Fish Blue Fish leaned in – perhaps a little too much.
The tartar sauce delivered a gourmet twist, with a complex flavour profile packed with herbs and bold spices.
At $23, this meal was among the priciest of the chippies visited.
Overall, the fish felt like one of the most authentic components in the review journey – a solid contender.
Finest At Sea - Victoria (27 Erie St.)
One of James Bay’s go-to spots for those craving the British classic, Finest At Sea offered an experience that did not disappoint.
Starting with a hefty portion of fish, they offered the thickest portion of fish, which ticked all the boxes: thick, fresh, flaky, and firm. However, it was a tiny bit on the mushy side.
The batter was fried to perfection, well-seasoned, puffy, and nicely adhered to the fish. Whole peppercorns added a pleasant kick of spice and a sharp, fruity flavour.
As for the fries, they stood out for their hearty, potato-forward taste and fresh, satisfying mouthfeel, which was a notable shift in comparison to other chippies, but were a bit on the dry side.
The tartar sauce, like other sauces on this list, felt more yogurt-based, so rich but not as much as a mayo-based one, which was welcomed.
As a side note, though not graded, Finest At Sea’s coleslaw was Ben’s favourite of all the places visited.
Also coming at $23, this meal was among the priciest of the chippies visited.
Overall, this chippie delivered a strong fish and chips, suited to nearly every palate.
Barb's Fish & Chips - Victoria (1 Dallas Rd.)
Last but not least is another contender for Greater Victoria’s most popular chippies, Barb’s Fish & Chips, located in the prime tourist hub of Fisherman’s Wharf.
Starting with the second-smallest piece of fish, Barb’s offers a narrower yet thick, flaky, and airy fillet.
The batter is quite crunchy, but glistens with oil and is slightly underseasoned. Regardless, it delivers on texture.
The fries, while not remarkable, do a solid job of complementing the fish.
The tartar sauce, similar to Sidney’s Fish on Fifth, contains a generous amount of gherkin chunks, adding both flavour and texture.
Priced at $23 – like its two other Victoria counterparts – this chippy is on the expensive end.
Overall, Barb’s Fish & Chips delivers a solid rendition of the classic, offering well-rounded flavours, staying true to the basics without straying into unfamiliar territory.
Conclusion
After an in-depth foray into the fascinating world of fish and chips, our reporters crowned Sidney’s Fish O Chips as Greater Victoria’s top chippy. However, these views are entirely their own.
The moral of the story? Get out there, enjoy what the Capital Region has to offer and decide for yourself. Every single chippy has something unique going on, and all are worth a visit.
A fish dish steeped in history
You're still here? Great! Here's a little bonus if you want to know more about this fish dish.
Fish and chips, a classic British dish with working-class roots, traces its origins back to the height of the Industrial Revolution in the mid-1800s.
The fried fish component is believed to have been introduced to England by Sephardic Jews who settled there after being expelled from Spain in the late 15th and early 16th centuries.
Among their traditions was a method of preparing battered fish, possibly because it could be cooked before the Friday Sabbath and eaten cold the next day without breaking religious laws.
This cooking style quickly gained popularity in London as a street food staple.
In 1863, an immigrant from Belgium, where fried potatoes were already common, is thought to have been the first to combine fried fish with chips, opening a shop in East London after first selling the meal on the street.
Through the ages, this iconic dish spread like wildfire across the island nation and beyond.
Fun fact: fish and chips were one of the few foods not subject to rationing during the Second World War. Prime Minister Winston Churchill argued the dish was good for the nation’s morale and even considered a contributing factor in defeating Nazi Germany, famously nicknaming it “the good companions.”
Today, fish-and-chip shops are found across the globe, especially in English-speaking countries.
According to a national trade association, the United Kingdom alone is home to more than 10,000 chippies, with countless pubs offering the dish as well. ̨MM one in four Britons eat fish and chips at least once a week.
