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Bikepacker rides backroads of Cariboo en route from Alaska

An American bikepacker enjoys exploring the backroads of the region, as he heads south to see friends in southern B.C.
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Zachary Miller was on vacation riding his bike on backroads from Haines, Alaska down to Lillooet, B.C., including riding through the Barkerville-Likely route and then into Williams Lake for a rest day.

Zachary Miller is not alone in his love for travel by bicycle, but he was alone for long stretches of his ride, from Haines, Alaska down to Lillooet, B.C.

Miller took the routes less travelled, avoiding much of Highway 16 and Highway 97 thanks to gravel roads he pieced together.

As the market for more adventurous bicycle-touring grows, those seeking pedal-powered journeys are going beyond European cycling vacations on the quiet routes of , a network of developed cycling networks across Europe. Cycle tourism in Europe is estimated to generate €44 billion annually, according to the European Cycling Federation. But in B.C., it is not as established. 

Bikepacking and gravel biking are two newer outlets for cycling enthusiasts looking for tours a little more on the adventurous side or at least away from traffic. Bikepacking is often used to refer to a more minimalist style of cycle touring using a rugged styles of bike, wider tires, and smaller bags, giving the rider more freedom, but with less room for supplementary gear. The set up makes it possible to ride gravel roads more comfortably and even potentially take some trails along the way. 

Miller is a climate scientist-turned avalanche forecaster, who now lives in Idaho. He said B.C. is a dream destination for someone with his passion for the outdoors, adventures and wilderness, so he was taking some time off this summer to tour the province and see some of the legendary mountains up close and in person.

Miller made his way on his bike starting from Haines, Alaska, where his best friend now lives, and riding routes he had found via fellow riders, scouring maps, seeking other bikepacker routes on and even by talking to people along the way.

On a backroad west of Quesnel, Miller met someone from the area who recommended he take the Wells, Barkerville highway and then go on the backroad via Ghost Lake to Likely, Horsefly and then Williams Lake. Originally, he planned to go from Quesnel to Williams Lake via the West Fraser Road, but the man he met convinced him he wouldn't want to miss the road to Likely.

He rolled into the campsite at Ghost Lake on July 27, meeting two Williams Lake residents (full disclosure, one of them was this writer) who camped there as well.  

The following day, he rode to Likely. It was hot, challenging riding and he made it in time to get some more food and then cooled off with a dip in Quesnel Lake.

Then, eating lunch in Horsefly which he reached via the Ditch Road, he rode on to Williams Lake.

He took in some local hospitality the first night, and planned to head off via Dog Creek Road and then the Gang Ranch Bridge to ride backroads via Churn Creek the following day onward to Lillooet.

But when he saw record temperatures were forecast, he decided instead on a rest day and had the benefit of some Williams Lake amenities for another day to ensure he was ready to ride the challenging route to Churn Creek and onward. The route required him to carry more food with so few services along the way.

On Thursday, July 31, he headed out of Williams Lake in high spirits and rested for the road ahead.

Arriving in Lillooet on Aug. 2, Miller decided to end the cycling part of his trip there, a bit sooner than he planned, but with the heat and the challenge of some of his chosen Cariboo terrain, he said he was ready for a rest.

Of the route he'd taken from Gang Ranch to Lillooet, Miller was not suggesting anyone necessarily follow in his tracks either.

"It does technically go but I doubt I'd recommend it," he reported afterwards.

He said giving himself two more days, a lighter load and wider tires might make it less of a grind.

Miller was heading down to Nelson, B.C. to meet up with friends and see the Kootenays before he headed home and back to work.

 

 

 



Ruth Lloyd

About the Author: Ruth Lloyd

I moved back to my hometown of Williams Lake after living away and joined the amazing team at the Williams Lake Tribune in 2021.
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